gives a basic outline on the properties and fabrication techniques
used for ACRYLIC. PSP recommends that for thermoforming and complex
fabrication projects you consult a professional plastic fabricator.
Manufactured from: Methyl Methacrylate Monomer
Forming Temperature: 140°C- 180°C
Light Transmittance: Clear 92%
During most phases of fabrication or installation, it is recommended
to keep the polythene or paper masking in place. You can remove
the masking by rolling it round a circular object (e.g. a cardboard
tube). During cutting and drilling always wear your safety glasses
and make sure the ACRYLIC is well supported.
Scoring: ACRYLIC sheet up to 4.5mm can be cut by this method.
Heavily score the sheet and press in a straight line on either
side of the groove produced.
Cutting with power saws: When cutting with a hand held
circular saw, clamp the sheet securely to minimise vibration.
Be sure the saw is up to full speed before beginning the cut.
The blade should be fine toothed, preferably carbide tipped. Cutting
with jigsaws: Make sure the jigsaw is set at high cutting speed.
Do not allow the sheet to overhang as the vibration may crack
the sheet. Always switch the jigsaw on before starting the cut.
Again the blade should be fine toothed.
Any kind of hand or power drill may be used for drilling ACRYLIC.
A $tationary drill press is preferred as it gives better control
and accuracy. The drill bit should be carbide tipped and blunted
(this stops "corkscrewing"). Drill at a good speed, with not too
much pressure. Withdraw the drill frequently to eject debris and
to minimise heating the material.
Before polishing the edges of ACRYLIC it should be sanded to a
smooth, sanitary finish. A finer grit will produce a smoother
finish use a soft cloth
and "Brasso". For larger jobs, you can use a buffing wheel and
a non-silicone car polish. Never polish cement joints.
ACRYLIC sheet, being thermoplastic, softens when heated and hardens
when cooled. The forming and heat bending of ACRYLIC can be a
difficult process. There are numerous plastic fabricators throughout
the country who are well versed in the different forming techniques
available (see your glass merchants for details).
The minimum radius is approximately 200 times the thickness of
the sheet eg 3mm -600mm radius, 4mm -800mm radius etc. Curving
of ACRYLIC can cause stress on the sheet unless a large radius
is used. Please check with your glass merchant.For permanent glazing
such as barrel vaults, PSP recommends using a high quality guaranteed
sheet. Also for -the majority of boat windscreens PSP recommend
a high quality ACRYLIC. For forming of windscreens we would recommend
thermoforming by an established plastic fabricator.
Your local glass merchant will have ACRYLIC cement available in
tubes. All surfaces to be cemented should fit together accurately.
Flat straight edges are easier to work with.
Simply apply the glue to the edges, hold the parts together briefly
and then fix them in a jig and apply pressure.
If screwing, allow for oversized holes to accommodate expansion
and contraction. SUNTUF screws are available from your glass merchant.
Do not use counter sunk screws.
ACRYLIC can be c!eaned with a soft cloth or sponge, using soap
or mild detergent.
Standard ACRYLIC sheets do not have a guarantee. However, GLAZING
ACRYLIC sheets carry a limited guarantee up to ten years (see
your glass merchant for details